东部小回环流水账 [4]
Feb 13th
拙政园号称中华四大名园之首,在我看来它至少配得上三大名园之首的称号(因为还有最后一个园—— 承德避暑山庄—— 还没去过),值得细细品味,尤其要找人少的时候去。狮子林也蛮精致而有趣的,它让我在这趟旅行中第一次迷了路。之后就离开苏州上无锡了。
无锡火车站的秩序远比苏州好,在那里得到了未曾谋面的李凌寒同好和他家人的热情接待。得益于他们的帮助,我在钱包没有不适的情况下进入鼋头渚公园游玩,观赏了太湖。李凌寒说我来的是时候,因为“夏天太湖全是蓝藻”。挺新鲜的,我一路过来,所有人都和我说“冬天光秃秃的没什么好看”,结果现在有人和我说冬天比夏天好,呵呵。晚上品尝了无锡的“小笼馒头”(好像沪宁杭一带部分地区包子和馒头的概念是和其他地方反过来的),味道相当不错,之后买了张车票去镇江。
这次的K188/189简直让我无话可说了,从上海开出不到200公里就误点将近2个小时,不过这一次旅行倒是一次挺妙的体验,以至于要专门拨出一篇游记来写。大家不要以为是出气筒哦,还是有一些很逗乐的故事可以说的,这里露个底吧:有关农民和警察。
在镇江住西津渡的小山楼国际青年旅舍。其实西津渡啊,在古代有另一个名称:金陵渡,这个名字在唐诗中出现得可多了。至于小山楼这个名字也取得很有意境,它出自张祜的《题金陵渡》:“金陵津渡小山楼,一宿行人自可愁。潮落夜江斜月里,两三星火是瓜洲。”西津渡对面呢,自然就是著名的瓜州了,所以这实在是个极其有历史底蕴的地方,相信大家对王安石的“京口瓜洲一水间”那首诗也不陌生吧。京口是镇江的古名之一。话说回来,镇江除了西津渡可以找到一点味道之外,似乎其他地方都很一般,比如金山、北固山、焦山,我都觉得很一般,至于镇江这个城市,感觉实在比苏州还糟糕。我想这句注释也够了。
次日傍晚,到南京。有了无锡到镇江严重误点的教训,不敢再坐慢车,只好买了张动车票。对南京的印象极其好,我觉得它可以算我在全国到过的大城市中最好的。
过了镇江以后身体未恙,12日上午睡了懒觉,之后又花了好几个小时修手机。下午与南京巡天会的许军会面,打算到南大天文系逛逛,结果被一句“不准上楼去”给轰了出来。又慕名到紫金山天文台朝圣,但找不到里面的人,承蒙许军的记者身份,混了进去。紫金山风景倒是一流,他们的大专家姿态也基本是国内惯例,见怪不怪了。许军是摄影记者,所以留了几张顶好的相片,改日给大家分享。之后不便妨碍许大哥工作,自己逛了总统府、鸡鸣寺和玄武湖,是日步行13.65公里,为东部小回环旅行最短的一次。
13日,上午继续在旅舍休整,中午出门,先去慕名已久的南京长江大桥,全桥走了一回;之后瞻仰南京大屠杀遇难同胞纪念馆。回想起5年前我去日本的时候刻意考察过的许多问题和地点,这时的心理碰撞是可怕的。我不得不说,面对那“300000”和面对那弯刀即将出鞘的武士雕像(位于靖国神社正中)的时候是一个思绪激烈翻滚碰撞的时刻。总之,假如你们有机会到南京或者到东京,我想,从更多角度了解70年前发生的事情是一种责任。
另外,国人的素质实在是…… 进那么肃穆的地方能不能自觉把手机调无声呀?至少不应该到处接电话或者拍照吧,太刺耳了。应该去东洋接受再教育。东洋人让人五体投地的国民素质和那尊张牙舞爪的武士雕像是我对那个国家最深刻的印象。
好吧,暂时收起这些严肃的话题,我想以后会有时候认真的讨论的。今天余下的行程去了朝天宫和中华门,最后到南京南站买了一张很强大的火车票—— 15日清晨去黄山的7101次普客(目前中国最慢的火车)。根据天气预测,黄山的游玩时间定下来了—— 15-18日,因为预计15日晚到18日上午黄山的高山地区将出现降雪。我上一次亲临雪景还是5年前了。期待。
因为今天的步行距离达21.6公里,比较疲惫,何况是感冒还没全好 所以以上的话有可能逻辑性很有问题,至少不符合我的精品风格,所以还是请各位多多包涵。另外,武汉和岳阳已经加入我的旅行计划,预计21-22日之间回到广州。祝开学的各位开学快乐。(图片呀,算了…… 现在都23点多了…… 下次吧…… 或者,明天吧……)
东部小回环流水账 [3]
Feb 9th
第二篇流水账是在迷迷糊糊中写完的,现在第三篇也不见得好多少。旅行的日子都是走得多睡得少,吃得也一般,不过我正努力养成品尝各地美食的好习惯。
当上海火车站前的世博大钟敲响11下的时候,我抵达了这座中国第一大城市。旅舍在鲁班路,但很不幸,我数了一下,坐地铁4号线(环线)正着坐要13站,反着坐要14站,原来刚好在城市的另一头,omg。上海我只给自己圈了两个点:豫园和东方明珠,至于后者当然是在外滩那里远远地看一下的。我对这些大塔早就不感冒了。
中国四大名园之一的豫园值得一去,不过那里在修地铁,所以不太好找。附近的南翔小笼包据说很有名,不过有一百来号人排队,所以就算了。外滩在搞什么外滩风景线,尘土飞扬的,印象不算很好,至于东方明珠的话其实也和照片上的差不多(顺带一提,我5年前飞日本的时候在空中俯瞰过东方明珠)。之后步行去南京路略略看了一下,就回旅舍休息了。顺带说一句,上海的公共交通不比想象的差,但也不比想象的好。
次日(8日),坐车去周庄,门票不便宜呀,一张红票。不出所料,大失所望,商业味巨重,整个镇子里上都是些当地人问“先生要吃饭不?”“先生要住宿不?”悻然逛了2小时不到就离开了,决定把9日的同里挪到8日下午,便坐车去同里。同里还可以,商业味不那么重,我一路都忙着记笔记,为写游记之用。
日落时分坐车去苏州。很不幸,苏州给我的印象不是一般的差…… 其他话就不多说了,至少公交车应该报个站吧?晚上,与陈韬会面,大侃特侃。
由于实在太困,今天上午睡了一会儿懒觉,在旅舍猫到13点半才出门。先去了留园,挺不错的,之后慕名去了寒山寺,大失所望,看来实在是“距离产生美”。东坡说不去虎丘是憾事,于是就去了,感觉也特棒,请各位等待游记的出炉。晚上逛了平江路、京杭运河和山塘。
根据实际情况,我适当调整了计划,明天一早去拙政园,中午去无锡,晚上到镇江,后天会出现在南京并停留4天之久。另外,在原来的最后一站南昌之后,还考虑加入武汉和岳阳,这样可能是在22日回到广州。
P.S. 晴天钟继续维持16-19日黄山下雪的预测,不过雪量可能不会很大,山上最低气温低于零下5摄氏度,期待指数持续高涨!这一次我就先不上图啦,等到到了南京悠闲的时候再给各位一些新照看看吧~~~
Lulin's reminder
Feb 8th
Sorry for lacking of updates on Lulin, I haven't many stories to tell as the comet speaks itself (herself), what's more, I'm now on a cross-country travel and is always on mobile, so I can't write much. If any of you happens to be at a YHA around Shanghai now, please let me know and we could possibly meet. Now I'm at a YHA hostel at Suzhou.
Okay, I just got a humor. I had mention earlier that I had let myself grow a long hair in order to "simulate" Lulin's tail. However, my parents and my friends don't like it, partly because I don't do make-up and my hair looks like a bad grassfield. A few days ago they found a very good reason for persuading me to cut it short: "Lulin's tail 'brokes'" (see http://www.spaceweather.com/archive.php?PHPSESSID=1s4hdb74jqcn8s8ss7juiaggl4&month=02&day=05&year=2009&view=view).
"Your Lulin reminds you that it's time to cut your hair!" Liaoshan Shi sent me a short message via mobile phone. This is a good humor, I admit, but her trick still doesn't work, I simply make my hair more tousy to make it appeared to be "disconnected"!
东部小回环流水账 [2]
Feb 7th
第一节已经提到,我在浓雾中漫步了半个西湖,神秘的灯柱,潮湿的栈道,黯淡的湖景,无数嘤嘤细语的情侣,这就是我对杭州的第一印象。
吴山驿青年旅舍不太好找,它坐落在吴山脚下的一个小巷子里,但我最后还是找到了。睡我上铺的是来自陕西的马超,我们很快就熟悉了。对面铺有个胖胖的加拿大老外,听口气是个网络工程师,已经退休了,来中国找活干。
6日天气不错,至少不下雨了,我去找赵晋。我和赵未曾谋面,但却保持了好久的同事关系,今天还将见到闻名全国的丁舒珊,我和她也已经认识了近4年之久,同样从未见过面。我十分期待。
由于不太熟悉杭州的公交系统,我搭了一部很慢的小巴去西湖对面找赵晋,不过见面还算顺利。以前也没赵的照片,原来是大帅哥一个呢,吼吼。逛完浙大以及吃完小笼包以后(在东山弄知味观吃的小笼包,味道绝顶鲜美!),见到了丁丁同志,传说中苏杭美女的范本呀,呵呵。
在这两位老杭州的指点之下逛遍了西湖北部的景点,逛到下午4点多,具体内容详见游记吧(假如我计划写的话,但至少也会有照片,呵呵),之后他们两位就因故离开,我则干了一件疯狂的事情—— 步行几乎环绕了整个西湖,代价是脚极度不舒服。这些天步行强度都挺大(与日常相比),东部小回环开始后的每日步行距离分别是:2月3日/21.9公里;2月4日/13.5公里;2月5日/19.8公里;2月6日/21.5公里;2月7日/14.8公里。多亏了我那双徒步鞋。
2月7日去吴山城隍庙,但代价是给坑了30块,因为上吴山是免费的,城隍庙则只是个复制品而已,不过上面拍西湖远景不错,多少还不算完全被坑。之后我爬凤凰山,逃了20块门票(无意的……),多少赚回来一点儿,但后来走得几乎迷路了,差点错过下午杭高的天文聚会。
杭高算是中国天文界鼎鼎大名的中学之一了,出了牛人无数(比如赵和丁),能应邀在他们的聚会上发言,实在非常荣幸。杭高天文社的掌门人林老师请我吃了一顿杭州特色的晚饭,之后我们一起到庆春门看杭高社员们开展的社区科普活动,棒得不能仅仅用成功来形容,这个晚上大大改变了我对90后的看法。
3日的杭州之行圆满结束,7日一早我和马超一起搭T786离开,他要去无锡,我们也分手了。感谢赵晋和丁丁带我四处转悠,新认识的韵希师妹和她家人的热情招待,还有林老师和杭高社员们。旅行之中能见到这么多朋友,真是太太棒了。
不好意思,以上可能写得颠三倒四的,我太困了,这几天睡得少吃得少,活动强度又不小。祝各位晚安。
P.S. 本来应该再记上海的。下次吧。晴天钟继续认为15-18日前后黄山将降大到暴雪,期待中!
东部小回环流水账 [1]
Feb 5th
我向自己再一次证明去机场用不着提前很多,提前半个小时到机场就足够了。第一次带小灰坐飞机,兴奋地在飞机上开了GPS(仅开GPS接收功能不会对飞行安全造成影响),结果刚接收到信号,就来了一个乘务员,说“飞行模式也不能开!”还好,过一会儿飞机就着陆了,也懒得和他怄气。降落时看到鼓浪屿和海沧大桥。
谢文鹏来机场接机。在这里实在要感谢老谢一家的热情款待,不仅带我到老巷子里品味正宗厦门人家的日常生活,还带我四处游玩。虽然在厦门不巧碰上大雾,但这次旅行经历还是相当棒。
我仅计划在厦门停留29个小时。2日晚逛了中山路,又拜会了陈栋华老师;3日一早去鼓浪屿。俗气的日光岩就不去了(浓雾,也看不到啥),主要逛了那些古朴而有多元文化特色的巷子、别墅和墓地;下午走厦门岛东缘以及厦门大学校区。金门没看到,不过既然去过了台湾,金门就没什么吸引力了。晚上谢文鹏送我去机场。
图便宜坐山东航空公司的航班,结果误了差不多两个小时起飞,晚上十一点半才到宁波机场。还好,还有机场大巴,省去我找人拼车的麻烦。到宁波市区时已经过了零点,我找不到路,GPS恰好又收不到信号,只好凭直觉走,结果竟然给我蒙对了。
第一次住YHA(严格来说是第二次,因为在Stockholm也是住hostel),感觉很不错,床下睡了个巴西人,会用中文说“你好”。一早起来去搞了个面包,啃着逛了月湖,感觉很好,很有地方特色还免费,之后就要拜会认识了4年却还未曾谋面的Vicki同学啦。我打算逛著名的天一阁,但却误以为天一阁和天一广场在差不多同一个地方,最后是在宁波市区内步行了两个多小时才找到天一阁—— 原来就在我住的地方附近。Vicki带我去城隍庙吃小吃,然后送我到火车站。在此也要特别感谢Vicki同学,承蒙她做东招待。
我坐T796到绍兴。绍兴是小回环计划中停留最短的地方—— 仅停留5小时,而且不妙的是我到了绍兴才想起《兰亭集序》中“会于会稽山阴之兰亭”的会稽山原来就在绍兴。还好,我后来知道兰亭是重建的,所以不太遗憾。到鲁迅故居的时候已经过了开放时间,但我却依然十分尽兴,在游记中要专门开一章写绍兴,讲讲鲁迅故居和两条狗的故事。仓桥直街也相当棒,绍兴对于自己的历史文化保护得算是不错,可以打70分。
坐末班特字头去杭州,结果从火车站到旅舍的公交已经没了,只好坐K31到第一医院。从第一医院到旅舍直线距离还有4公里多,但恰好在西湖附近,所以我就来了个夜游西湖。浓雾,西湖对面都看不见,但夜雾西湖倒是极其有味道。
好吧,先写到这里了,等下要去拜会未曾谋面的赵晋、丁丁等人了。旅行真快乐啊,见识这么多事,认识这么多人。希望各位期待期待我的游记吧,哈哈。
P.S. 我一直在关注中下旬黄山的天气,大家一起来bless一下到时候黄山能下雪吧!晴天钟的两周预测(准确性较低)说18号会下大雪到暴雪,希望如此!
东部小回环计划即将开始
Feb 2nd
大年初七山寨版新年音乐会
Feb 1st
2月1日,我、盼盼、迟、阿饭师兄、吴国龙一行在Y君家举办了东道主称为“山寨版新年音乐会”的聚会,我担纲小提琴(客串了钢琴)、盼盼钢琴(客串了小提琴)、阿饭师兄(钢琴和打击乐)、吴国龙(长笛和八孔竖笛),Y君和迟均高歌一曲,演奏曲目包括《探戈》、超级玛丽奥主题曲、诸首圣歌、《维也纳森林的故事》以及莫扎特的《第三小提琴协奏曲》等等,轻松活泼,举座皆欢,实尽兴也,兹传照片于此,与诸位飨。照片均为Y君所摄。
Lulin dating compaign: update on Jan. 31
Jan 31st
I drag myself out of bed again at 4:30 a.m. It's another very clear night, with limiting magnitude around 5.4 (using IMO method -- but this do not mean that tonight is better than last night, since last night I had to use a not-well located reference field as the cirrus block the favourite one). I get the 13-cm refractor out and set it up, but it takes me a little bit longer than last night to see the comet.
With a telescope, the sky quality seems to be slightly better than last night, the faintest star I have been able to see is TYC 6174-464-1 at 12.28 mag, but (26) Proserpina (12.5 mag) is still invisible. Galaxy NGC 5890 (at 12.6 mag) is only 10' away according to the map, unsurprisingly it's not visible, too. Tonight I have much more options on comparasion stars -- but the observation doesn't make me feel exciting. I estimate the total brightness of the comet to be around 7.3 mag using Morris method, with six comparasion stars at mag 6.17-7.97, while the coma diameter to be 7'. The comet's look does not change much except a 30" dense core run out tonight. Tonight's estimate is 0.5 mag fainter than that of last night, I think tonight's one is more reliable since only two comparasion stars were used last night.
Shortly before the astronimical twilight starts, I also give a try on NGC 5892, a galaxy about 3 degrees away at 12.0 mag, but with no luck. Seems its surface brightness is still too dim. I then shift back to Lulin and see it off in the twilight (still barely visible even after the nautical twilight started!).
I'm not sure when would the next dating occur. I'll be away for a three-week tour in the country soon, and the rainy season will begin at Guangzhou before I come back. I'll try if I can spot it with naked-eye when I arrive at Mt. Huangshan in mid Feburary.
Second dating with Lulin
Jan 30th
As Comet Lulin is now approaching the Earth, the questions such as "how is your comet" or "did you take look at your comet" frequently fly into my ears. When replying these questions, I'd love to refer the comet as "my girl", and a standard reply is "no, I haven't date with her since last August". What's more, for a co-activity with Lulin's "heaven" show, I let my hair grow to a record length, and promise to my friends that "I will make it up according to the appearance of Lulin's tails". But actually, up to now, I have no time to make it up, and to be honest, no idea on how to make it up. I used to keep my hair very short. (the "public" reason is that the Lulin's tails are generally not visible yet)
As several cold fronts went over the Pearl River Delta around the Chinese New Year's Day, the air quality had improved to a very remarkable level. On Jan. 27, the Air Pollution Index (API) of Guangzhou's downtown was even down to 14 (while the average API of the downtown area is around 70-80). The Astroweather Panel suggested the sky would be clear in the morning of Jan. 30, so I went to my house at the countryside for a 4-day stay on Jan. 28. The air quality there was even more surprising -- with API lower than 4. Such an excellent air quality is rarely seen in the well-polluted Pearl River Delta area.
When I drag myself out of bed at 4 a.m. in the morning of Jan. 30, the sky did cleared up, although not as that good as Astroweather Panel predicted -- there are still a few cirrus on the sky. I checked the values of a nearby meteorological station, the temperature is 9.8C, not very low yet. So I carried by 80-mm f/5 refractor out. Except the cirrus, the sky is remarkably clear, I estimate the limiting magnitude to be 5.1 with IMO method -- also a record for this observing site. I wait for a few minutes until the cirrus move away from Libra, then point the telescope to the area. I don't bring my laptop out -- I was always very lazy and would not bring my laptop to the telescope, until I admit I'm unable remember the exact location of the target I want to observe. But this time I get a bonus, a fuzzy ball appeared in my view within only half a minute. I went into my bedroom, check the finding map, and confirm it's indeed "my girl".
I moved my biggest telescope -- a 13-cm f/6.4 refractor -- into the observing field. The 13-cm has a much better quality than the 8-cm. I point it to the comet, and try to estimate the comet's brightness using Sidgwick method. I'm not a good visual comet observer, and there are not sufficient comparasion stars around the area, so the observasion may be of some errors. The first estimate is 6.1 mag, but shortly after that I find out the comet is just occulting with a 10.72 mag star (TYC 6175-46-1), so I wait until it moves away from the star and make a second estimate. The final estimate is 6.7 mag with coma diameter to be 7'. The comet is slightly elongated over the ecliptic. After observed the comet, I make some attempts to see how deep I can go. A 12.16 mag star (TYC 6175-765-1) is visible, although not easily, but an asteroid nearby (26 Proserpina, around 12.5 mag) can not be seen, so the limiting magnitude for the 13-cm refractor at this night should be around 12.2 mag.
The twilight appears and marks the end of observing, I watch a beautiful sunrise (I always get excited about sunrises and sunsets!) at the observing field before go back to sleep. The visibility is also very remarkable today -- the 50-km away Mount Apoliu is clearly visible in twilight over a small patch of "cloud-sea".
Greeting the year of Ox
Jan 28th
The world seems to be more and more familiar with Chinese's most imprtant day -- the Spring Festival, or Chinese New Year's Day. I would prefer the later one, as the event is not only a festival, but also the opening of a new year, using "Day" might be better on describing the importance of the day than using "Festival". Although in Chinese language, "festival" or "day" shares the same charactor when refering to the meaning of an annual event ("节", Jie), but it has a very slight different when being translating back into English -- as we generally don't call Christmas Day as "Christmas Festival"! However, in the following, I'll still speak "Spring Festival" since this noun has been used for long.
The coming year will be a year of Ox. Although all the Chinese will enjoy the same festival, there can be large difference on celebration way across the country. Today I'll show you how Cantonese (a.k.a. Guangzhou citizens) celebrate the festival, since I have lived at here for years.
The most classic and unique ceremony at Guangzhou for the Spring Festival celebration is the Greet Spring Flower Market ("迎春花市"). This might be the biggest difference compare to the northern cities, since Guangzhou is located in the south of the Tropic of Cancer, the flowers can grow and blossom even in winter. All eight districts, as well as some nearby cities (such as Foshan), will hold Flower Market, but those markets in downtown area are the biggest and hottest.
The market would be opened a few days before the New Year's Eve, but most people will choose the Eve for visit. If you go to the market in the evening of the New Year's Eve, you should be well prepared for heavy crowds. When I was very young, my family went to the Flower Market every year, and the visits were mostly finished by missing someone, because there were too many people.
Why the Cantonese need to buy flowers at the Flower Market? As far as I know, that is partly because an old Chinese saying, "flowers blossom riches and honour". As the flowers are not likely to grow in the most Chinese cities, a blossom flower at the beginning of a year will have a very special meaning.
However, flowers are not the only product at the market. When you visit the market, you will see windmills -- hold in the customers or are being sold. I don't know if buying windmills is also a Cantonese custom, but I doubt if there are any people who would like to hold a windmill in the cold northern cities. The meaning of windmill is quite clear -- because there is a Chinese phase goes as "turning (for good) fortune", and "turn" and "rotate" shares the same Chinese charactor. People believe that good fortune will come in the forthcoming year when the fans rotate.
There are also other habits -- for example, hanging red lantern and the "fortune" sign. The "fortune" sign should be installed up-side-down, why? That is because in Chinese language, the pronunciation of "up-side-down" is similar to "coming", so it's a custom to install the sign up-side-down to welcome the "fortune". It's also a custom to eat fish around the New Year's Day, the reason is somewhat similar: a Chinese saying goes "surplus in every year", and the pronunciation of "surplus" is the same as "fish". The most important custom across the country -- even for those overseas -- is having a family reunion dinner in the New Year's Eve, and this is one of the main reason why many Chinese are willing to board a heavy train back home during the Spring Move.
The Flower Market will close exactly at 12 a.m. of the New Year's Day. The unsold flowers will be ruined, because the custom is that the flowers must be bought and placed before the New Year comes.
According to my parents, in the old days the New Year's Day is the happiest hour for kids in a year, because only that day would the kids to be gave new cloths (must dress on in the New Year's Day), had nice food to eat, and earn lucky money. They would also enjoy a great time with the firecracker. Nowadays our teens will not treat new cloths and nice food as a major entertainment, we are more likely to find ourselves sitting bored at the restraut, while our parents are busying meeting the long-time-no-see relatives with emotion. But after all, there are still something for our teens to be busy with when the new year comes -- sending and replying the flood-in mobile phone messages and e-mails for New Year's greeting!
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